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Ok, we have not really been to the islands called Lofoten exactly. However, if I write Vesterälen, nobody knows the place. But it is just the islands north of the Lofoten.
Knowing this, we should have been suspicious about the Vesterälen from the beginning. We were happy to know, that the Vesterälen are as beautiful as the Lofoten but less crowded.
What we did not know was, that this is for a good reason: swamps! marshlands! quagmire! morass! Whatever you call it, it means WET. Plus, in the nice areas there are no marked trails, I mean no trails at all, for the most part of it.